• Air-Powered Units
• Electric Units
• System or bags leaks

Problem: "The air continues to run, even if I pull the electric plug from the wall." This is due dirt getting inside the solenoid and preventing the plunger from completely closing. It only takes a small spec to keep it open.

Solution #1: Clean out the solenoid (a brass colored metal cylinder 1" dia. X 2" long) by removing the 9/16 nut and slide the coil and washer off. Just below the threads there is a 1/8" section of the post that can be gripped with pliers to unscrew the post. Caution: do not grip below this section as the post is hollow and will be crushed. Inside is a plunger and spring, do not misplace. Remove the dirt on the plunger or the hole. Replace by reversing the above steps.

Solution #2: Invest in a filter for the air line (Coalescing type is best) to prevent this from happening again. We have found that shops with expensive filtering systems at the compressor or regulator on the wall, still have this problem. This is due to the fact that when you are ready to use the unit, someone picks an air-line off the floor and plugs it in. Chips, sawdust, etc. are in the quick disconnect and get blown right into the unit. Our filters are design to attach directly to the unit and prevent this problem. A coalescing filter will also remove water and oil from the line.

Problem: "The unit doesn't get up to vacuum and shut off like it use to. It's getting over 85psi while it's running, so I know it has plenty of air." (The air-powered units need a minimum of 85-90 psi when the unit is on.)

Solution: Clean out the VAK Pumps if cleaning out the solenoids didn't solve the problem. Some small debris has blown through the solenoid and lodged inside the VAK Pump venturi section. This is a very small opening that controls the flow of air and if partially blocked, reduces the compressed air volume needed for maximum performance. Remove the VAK Pump by first removing the vacuum line (clear hose) that has a check valve (black item) imbedded inside it. Swing the VAK pump up and unscrew it. Unscrew the insert (5/8" hex) and blow it out from the pointed end. Clean out the body by blowing it out.

The manufacture recommends flushing the pump periodically with a solvent. This keeps the vanes from possibly sticking as the clearance between the vanes and side wall is only .0002". Click on Electric Systems and scroll to the bottom of the page for maintenance items.

Problem: "It gets to vacuum level, but I have to tap it to shut off." This can be due to two factors. There is a slight leak in the system and it's not quite up to vacuum level because the pump can't quite overcome the small leak. The other reason is the sensor contacts have been "fried" by high current.

Solution: At the plastic tee, remove the hose that goes to the bag. Turn the unit on and block the tee. If the system gets to vacuum and shuts off, you have a leak at the connector or in the bag. If it doesn't shut off, turn the sensor adjusting screw until it shuts off at a lower vacuum level. Cycle on/off several times to make sure it's repeatable.

If it doesn't shut off after adjusting the sensor, it's probably the sensor itself. The pump can pull as much as 44 amps at start up and this can cause the contact points in the sensor or micro switch to get pitted and damaged. The sensor should be replaced. The newer EC's (electric controllers) have a relay (mounted on inside front of box) installed to take the higher amperage. If your unit does not have a relay, it should be ordered with the sensor. Units can be sent to Q.V.P. for repair and testing. We only charge for replacement parts and do not charge for labor. All replaced parts are returned with your unit.

Finding a leak in a VAK-Matic or All- in-One air-powered unit: If the unit is leaking, it is usual either the check valve has something stuck inside to keep it open or the brass sensor screw o-ring leaks.

O-Ring: Remove the brass screw and coat the o-ring and screw with Vaseline and re-screw into sensor until about one thread is above the housing. Cover the vacuum line and turn on to VAK Bag and set sensor to shut off at 24"Hg (less if at an elevation). If it shuts off and holds vacuum then you are done. If not, you need to remove the check valve.

Check Valve: Disconnect the plug and airline from the box and remove the 8 screws holding the box together. If you have only one vacuum barb on the left side of the box, you will have a black knob (air regulator) on the right end of the box. This will have a panel nut on it and it must be removed. Lift the top cover off from the left side and slide the regulator knob out of the bottom cover. The check valve is the black piece imbedded inside the clear hose. Take it off and blow through the short end (end with the red plastic piece). Air should flow in this direction. Then blow through the other end, air should not flow, if it does, then something is stuck inside the check valve. Clean the valve and reassemble being sure to have the red end facing the direction of the bag.

Finding Bag Leaks: One of the simplest methods of finding bags leaks is to line the inside (top & bottom) with newspaper. Pull vacuum on the bag and then sponge it with water. The leak will stain the paper and it will be easy to see. Don't forget to turn the bag over and do the bottom side as well as the connector. Squeeze the sponge around the connector where the hose is attached to see if it's leaking at the hose.